Sewing a Curved Hem
@Professor Pincushion
@DIYFashionRebel
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Sewing a curved hem on a circle skirt or a shirttail is notoriously difficult because the raw outer edge is wider than the smaller area you are trying to fold it up into, leading to severe puckers. The “easing” method is the professional secret to a perfectly smooth finish.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric with a curved edge
- Sewing machine and thread
- Iron and pressing mat
- Pins or sewing clips
Tips for Success:
- Keep it narrow! A curved hem should rarely be wider than 1/2 inch. A 1/4 inch “baby hem” is highly recommended.
- Use plenty of steam when ironing to permanently shrink and set the eased gathers.
1. Sew an Easing Stitch
- Set your sewing machine to a long basting stitch (length 4.0 or 5.0). Sew a single line of stitching exactly 1/4 inch away from the raw edge of your curve all the way around the hem. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end.
2. Gather the Fullness
- Take the fabric to your ironing board. Gently pull on the bobbin thread tails of your easing stitch. This will cause the raw edge of the fabric to curl inward and gather slightly, shrinking the circumference of the raw edge so it fits the narrower area it will fold into.
3. Press the First Fold
- Use the easing stitch line as your built-in folding guide! Fold the raw edge up toward the wrong side of the fabric directly along that stitch line. Press firmly with a hot, steamy iron to shrink the fullness and flatten the puckers.
4. Press the Second Fold
- Fold the hem up one more time (another 1/4 inch) to completely enclose the raw edge. Pin or clip the hem securely in place. Press the entire curve again. The edge should now lay completely flat against the fabric without twisting.
5. Topstitch the Hem
- Return your machine to a standard stitch length (around 2.5). Sew close to the inner folded edge all the way around the curve to secure the hem permanently.
6. Final Press
- Give the hem one final, firm press with steam to smooth out any lingering tension and set the stitches beautifully into the fabric.
Top FAQs for Sewing a Curved Hem:
Why does my curved hem pucker and twist? +
When you fold a convex curve (like the bottom of a circle skirt) up into the garment, you are trying to fit a wider outer edge into a narrower inner space. This excess fabric has nowhere to go, causing it to bunch, pucker, and twist unless you ease or gather it first.
What is an easing stitch? +
An easing stitch is simply a long basting stitch sewn near the raw edge. By pulling the bobbin thread, you draw the fabric in slightly—not enough to create deep ruffles, but just enough to shrink the edge so it lays flat when folded up.
How wide should a curved hem be? +
For the best results, curved hems should be very narrow—usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch maximum. The deeper you make the hem, the more extreme the difference in circumference becomes, making it nearly impossible to avoid puckers.
Can I use bias tape for a curved hem? +
Yes! Using bias tape as a “facing” is a fantastic alternative for finishing deep or very steep curves. Because bias tape stretches, it easily molds to the shape of the curve, providing a clean, flat finish on the inside of the garment without having to fold the garment fabric twice.
Do I need a special presser foot? +
You can easily sew a curved hem with a standard presser foot using the easing method. However, if you are sewing a curved hem on very fine or sheer fabrics (like chiffon), a specialized “Rolled Hem Foot” can be incredibly helpful for creating a tiny, delicate finish.
Should I clip the curves before hemming? +
You clip *inward* (concave) curves, like a neckline. But for *outward* (convex) curves, like a skirt hem, clipping does not help. If you cut into the hem, it weakens the edge and creates jagged corners. Always ease the fullness instead of cutting it.
