Stay-Stitch Curves
@Professor Pincushion
@Craftsy
@SimplicityVideo
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Stay-stitching is a line of straight stitching sewn through a single layer of fabric, right inside the seam allowance. It prevents curved or bias-cut edges (like necklines and armholes) from stretching out of shape while you handle the pieces during construction.
Materials Needed:
- Freshly cut fabric pieces
- Sewing machine
- Standard sewing thread
- Sewing gauge or ruler
Tips for Success:
- You should stay-stitch your pieces immediately after cutting them out of the pattern—before ironing or pinning them to anything else!
- Try not to push or pull the fabric as you feed it through the machine, or you might stretch the curve while trying to secure it.
1. Identify the Edges to Stitch
- Look at your pattern instructions to see which edges require stay-stitching. Typically, these are deep curves like necklines and armholes, or diagonal “bias” cuts like V-necks and flared waistlines, which are highly prone to stretching.
2. Set the Seam Allowance
- Stay-stitching must eventually be hidden inside the seam of the garment. Check your pattern’s seam allowance (usually 5/8″). You want to stay-stitch a scant 1/8″ inside that line (so for a 5/8″ allowance, sew at 1/2″ from the raw edge).
3. Set the Stitch Length
- Set your machine to a standard straight stitch. Use a normal stitch length (about 2.5mm). Do not use a long basting stitch, as it won’t lock the fibers firmly enough to prevent stretching.
4. Sew Directionally
- To prevent the presser foot from pushing the fabric out of shape, always sew directionally (usually from the widest point to the narrowest point). For a neckline, sew from the left shoulder down to the center front, cut the thread, then sew from the right shoulder down to the center front.
5. Do Not Backstitch
- You do not need to backstitch at the beginning or end of your stay-stitching lines. Simply sew off the edge of the fabric and cut your threads.
6. Leave it Flat
- Do not pull the thread tails to gather the fabric. The fabric piece should lay completely flat and perfectly match the shape of the original paper pattern piece, locked in place and ready for construction!
Top FAQs for Stay-Stitching Curves:
What exactly is stay-stitching? +
Stay-stitching is a standard line of straight stitching sewn through a single layer of fabric, slightly inside the seam allowance. Its only purpose is to “stay” the fabric—preventing it from stretching out of shape before it gets sewn to another piece.
When should I stay-stitch my pieces? +
You should do it as the very first step of your project. Immediately after cutting the pattern pieces out of the fabric, take them to the sewing machine and stay-stitch the required curves before you handle, pin, or iron them.
Do I have to remove the stay-stitching later? +
No! Because you sew the stay-stitching just inside the seam allowance (e.g., 1/2″ away from the edge for a 5/8″ seam), it will end up permanently hidden inside the seam of your finished garment. You never have to rip it out.
What happens if I skip stay-stitching? +
Curved and bias-cut edges are highly unstable. Just picking them up and moving them around your sewing room can cause them to permanently stretch. If you skip this step on a neckline, you will likely end up with a gaping, loose collar that won’t lay flat against your chest.
What is “directional stitching”? +
Directional stitching means sewing in the direction of the fabric’s grain to avoid pushing it out of shape. As a general rule for necklines, you sew from the highest point (the shoulder) down to the lowest point (center front or back) on both sides.
Can I use a longer stitch length to go faster? +
No, you should stick to a standard stitch length (around 2.5mm). A long basting stitch will not secure the individual woven yarns of the fabric firmly enough, defeating the purpose of the technique.
