Understitching
(Preventing Facings and Linings from Rolling)
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Step-by-Step Instructions:
Understitching is a crucial technique in garment sewing that keeps facings, linings, and pockets from peeking out on the right side of your project. By stitching the seam allowance to the inside layer, you create a crisp edge that wants to roll inward.
Materials Needed:
- Garment pieces with facing/lining
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine
- Iron and pressing mat
- Edge stitching foot (optional but helpful)
Tips for Success:
- Press the seam well *before* stitching; the fabric should be perfectly flat.
- Stitch with the facing layer facing up so you can guide the edge accurately.
- Grade your seam allowances first to reduce bulk along the edge.
1. Sew the Seam
- Sew your garment and facing pieces right sides together according to your pattern requirements.
2. Press toward the Facing
- On the inside of the garment, press both layers of the seam allowance toward the facing or lining piece.
3. Position under the Foot
- Place the fabric under the sewing machine foot with the facing layer facing up and the garment layer to the left. Ensure the seam allowance remains tucked underneath the facing.
4. Stitch close to the Seam
- Stitch along the facing, very close to the original seam line (usually about 1/8 to 1/16 inch away). This stitches through the facing and the seam allowance only—not the main garment fabric.
5. Final Press
- Once the length of the seam is understitched, press the facing to the inside of the garment. It will now lay flat with a crisp edge.
Top FAQs for Understitching:
Why can’t I just press the edge? +
While pressing creates a temporary crisp edge, understitching provides a permanent, physical hold. It locks the seam allowance in place, ensuring the facing will not roll or peek out, even after wearing and washing.
Will understitching show on the outside of my garment? +
No. Understitching is only visible on the inside (facing/lining) layer. By ensuring you only catch the facing and the seam allowance in the stitches, the outside of the garment remains clean and smooth.
Do I need to understitch everywhere? +
You should understitch anywhere your pattern has a facing or lining that needs to stay enclosed. It is typically used around necklines, armholes, pocket openings, and the top edge of a waistband.
