Bobbin Work
(decorative stitching using thicker thread)
@WonderFilThreads
@PhilsSewingMachines
@LetsGoSewwithJoanneBanko
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to make and apply continuous bias binding to create a polished, stretchy edge finish ideal for curves, necklines, quilts, and armholes.
Materials Needed:
- Sewing machine (that allows for bobbin tension adjustment or use of a secondary bobbin case)
- Bobbin case (preferably one you can adjust tension on)
- Thick decorative thread or yarn (for bobbin)
- Regular sewing thread (for needle)
- Fabric (preferably medium-weight like cotton or linen)
- Stabilizer (tear-away or water-soluble)
- Hand-winding bobbin
- Sewing machine needle (size 90/14 or 100/16)
- Fabric marking tools
- Scissors or thread snips
- Optional: Free-motion quilting or darning foot (for freestyle designs)
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use a separate bobbin case when adjusting tension so you don’t alter your main one.
- Wind the bobbin by hand with thick thread to avoid tangles or uneven tension.
- Always sew with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, as the bobbin thread will show on the right side.
- Test on scrap fabric first to fine-tune tension and stitch length.
- Stabilize the fabric to prevent puckering or skipped stitches.
1. Prepare Your Bobbin with Thick Thread
- Wind your thick decorative thread (such as perle cotton or heavy rayon) onto the bobbin by hand.
- Avoid using the sewing machine to wind the bobbin as it may stretch or damage the thread.
2. Adjust Bobbin Tension (if needed)
- Use a secondary bobbin case and slightly loosen the tension screw.
- Test stitch and adjust until the decorative thread flows smoothly without loops or tightness.
3. Thread the Machine as Usual (Top Thread)
- Use regular all-purpose thread in the needle that coordinates or contrasts with your decorative thread.
- Do not change upper tension unless needed for balance.
4. Stabilize and Mark the Fabric
- Apply tear-away or water-soluble stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric.
- Mark your design or sewing lines lightly on the right side.
5. Flip the Fabric
- Sew with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, so the bobbin thread appears on the right side.
- Align your marked design accordingly.
6. Begin Stitching
- Use a straight stitch or a wide zigzag, depending on the texture you want.
- Sew slowly to allow the bobbin thread to feed smoothly and create even decorative effects.
7. Finish and Clean Up
- Gently remove the stabilizer after sewing.
- Trim any excess threads or fuzz from the back side.
- Press the fabric gently if needed, using a pressing cloth to avoid flattening textured stitches.
