Seam Allowance
@EvelynWood
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Mastering seam allowance is essential for durable, professional-looking sewing projects. Learn how to measure, sew, and finish seam allowances for garments, quilts, and home décor—perfect for beginners and advanced sewists aiming for accuracy and longevity.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric for your project (garment, quilting, or home décor)
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Pins or clips
- Seam gauge or ruler
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, frixion pen, or washable marker)
- Iron and pressing surface
- Pinking shears, zigzag foot, or serger (for finishing edges)
- Optional: Bias tape for binding
Tips for Perfect Perfect Seam Allowances
- Always check your pattern for the recommended seam allowance—common values are 5/8 inch for garments, 1/4 inch for quilting, and 1/2 inch for home décor.
- Use the seam guides on your sewing machine’s throat plate to keep stitching straight and even.
- Pin or clip fabric edges before sewing to prevent shifting.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam for strength.
- Press seams as you sew for crisp, flat results.
- Finish raw edges to prevent fraying and extend the life of your project.
1. Prepare Your Fabric
- Place fabric pieces right sides together, aligning edges to be sewn.
- Pin or clip along the seam line.
2. Set Up Your Sewing Machine
- Select the correct seam allowance width for your project.
- Adjust your machine’s needle position if needed and use the seam guide for accuracy.
3. Sew the Seam
- Start at the fabric edge, backstitch to secure.
- Sew along the seam line, keeping the edge aligned with the guide.
- Backstitch at the end.
4. Press the Seam
- Open the fabric and press seam allowances to one side or open, as directed by your pattern.
5. Finish the Seam Allowance
- Choose a finishing method:
- Pinking: Trim edges with pinking shears.
- Zigzag: Sew a zigzag stitch along the raw edge.
- Serging: Overlock edges with a serger.
- Binding: Encase edges with bias tape.
6. Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Uneven seams: Double-check seam allowance measurements and use guides.
- Fraying edges: Finish seams promptly after sewing.
- Puckered seams: Use the correct needle and thread for your fabric and press seams flat.
More Sewing Techniques!
Top FAQs for this technique:
Seam allowance is the area between the fabric edge and the stitching line, providing strength and allowing for adjustments in sewing projects.
Most garment patterns use a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance unless otherwise specified.
Use pinking shears, zigzag stitching, a serger, or bind with bias tape to finish raw edges.
Only adjust seam allowance if you understand how it affects fit and construction; always test on scrap fabric first.