The Great Seam Allowance Debate: The Results Are In!
We recently asked you to weigh in on one of the sewing world’s most polarizing topics in our Great Seam Allowance Debate. You answered the call! Let’s look at what our community prefers, explore the beautiful logic behind pattern traditions, and perhaps convince you to try a whole new approach on your cutting table.
How the SewShare Community Voted
The clear winner
A resounding majority—nearly 65%—prefer patterns with seam allowances already included.
The preservationists
When it comes to tissue patterns, 36% of you are dedicated tracers who want to keep the original paper intact, while 29% prefer to cut fearlessly right into the original copy.
The brave sewists
Surprisingly, despite the heavy preference for included allowances, 45% of you said a missing seam allowance has no impact on your decision to buy or use a pattern.
The Comfort of the Included Allowance
Why do so many of us love a pre-drafted seam allowance? It comes down to pure convenience. When the allowance is built right in, you can pin your pattern to the fabric and start cutting immediately. It saves time, standardizes the construction process, and removes an extra math step from your prep work. For quick projects and trusted pattern blocks, it is undeniably efficient.
The Magic of the “Naked” Pattern
If you are part of the 65% who prefer included allowances, we want to gently challenge you to try working without them. There is a reason many advanced makers prefer patterns drafted without extra margins.
- Flawless Fit Adjustments: When you work without a seam allowance, you are working with the actual finished dimensions of the garment. This means you can measure the pattern against your body without doing mental math to subtract the edges.
- Total Control Over Finishes: You are no longer locked into the designer’s standard. Want a tiny ¼-inch allowance to reduce bulk on a tight curve? Or perhaps a generous ⅝-inch allowance because you plan to enclose raw edges in an elegant French seam? You get to decide.
- Pinpoint Accuracy: When you trace a pattern without allowances, you can mark the actual sewing line directly onto your fabric. Instead of hoping you cut perfectly and sewing a set distance from the raw edge, you sew exactly on the line.
A Nod to Tradition: The Burda Style Story
If you have ever opened a Burda Style magazine, you know their printed patterns notoriously omit the seam allowance. This isn’t an oversight – it is a blend of rich history and brilliant practicality.
Burda, a historic German publication, fits dozens of full-sized patterns into every single issue by printing them on large, shared, overlapping sheets. If every pattern piece included a seam allowance, the pieces would be too large to fit on the page, and the overlapping lines would become an unreadable mess.
Omitting the allowance also honors the European dressmaking tradition. It trusts the maker. Burda assumes you have the experience to trace your pattern, apply your preferred fitting adjustments, and add the seam allowance that best suits your chosen fabric and finishing technique.
(Today many Burda patterns sold in the United States do include the allowance. The SewShare Marketplace has over 200 of Burda Style’s best sellers! Explore Burda Style patterns now >)
Ready to Give It a Try?
Working without a pre-drawn seam allowance might feel a little stressful at first, but it will fundamentally change how you understand garment construction. If you are ready to expand your skills, we have two fantastic resources waiting for you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the standard seam allowance for sewing patterns?
In the United States, most independent and “Big Four” pattern companies include a standard ⅝-inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance for woven garments. However, this is not a universal rule! Patterns designed specifically for knits often use a ¼-inch or ⅜-inch allowance to minimize bulk. We always recommend double-checking the pattern instructions before you make your first cut. Want to dive deeper? Ask Sewpedia or visit the SewShare Technique Library to watch video tutorials.
Do Burda Style patterns include seam allowances?
It depends on the format! If you are tracing a pattern directly from a Burda Style magazine, the seam allowances are not included. However, many of the standalone Burda tissue patterns sold in the United States—including the 200+ bestsellers available right here in the SewShare Marketplace—do have the seam allowances included. Always check the envelope or the first page of your instructions to be sure.
How do I add a seam allowance if my pattern doesn’t have one?
It is much easier than it sounds, and it gives you total control over your garment! Our favorite method is using a clear acrylic ruler or a double tracing wheel to map out the exact margin you need directly onto your tracing paper or fabric. You can use a standard ⅝-inch for side seams, a generous 1.5-inch for hems, or a tiny ¼-inch for tight curves. For a step-by-step visual walk-through, check out our video tutorial on How to Add a Seam Allowance.
Why would a pattern designer choose NOT to include a seam allowance?
Drafting without a seam allowance is a traditional dressmaking method that trusts the sewist. It makes flat pattern adjustments (like a full bust adjustment, lengthening, or grading between sizes) significantly easier because you are working with the true finished dimensions of the garment. It also lets you customize your margins based on your finishing technique—for example, you might want a wider allowance if you are planning elegant French seams.
Is it better to trace my sewing patterns or cut directly into the tissue paper?
As our survey showed, the SewShare community is beautifully divided on this! Tracing your patterns preserves the original master copy, meaning you can easily make different sizes or variations in the future. Cutting directly into the paper, however, is much faster and gets you to the sewing machine quicker. There is no wrong answer. If you are new to a brand or trying a tricky fit, tracing is the safest bet. If it’s a simple, trusted silhouette, feel free to cut fearlessly!
