1. Understand the Construction

• Wovens are made on a loom with multiple threads crisscrossing over and under each other (warp and weft). Examples: Quilting cotton, denim, linen.
  Knits are made from a single, continuous yarn looped repeatedly through itself (just like hand-knitting a sweater, but on a microscopic scale). Examples: T-shirt jersey, sweater knits, spandex.

2. Do the Stretch Test

• Grab the fabric with two hands and pull it side to side. Knits will stretch significantly and bounce back. Wovens will feel stiff and barely budge (unless pulled exactly diagonally on the bias, or if they have spandex woven into them).

3. Check the Raw Edges

• Look at the cut edge of the fabric. Wovens will easily fray and unravel into individual threads. Knits will not fray; instead, the raw edges of jersey knits will often curl up or roll onto themselves.

4. Choose the Right Needle

• When sewing wovens, use a Universal or Microtex (Sharp) needle to cleanly pierce the tight threads. For knits, you must use a Ballpoint or Stretch needle. The rounded tip slips between the interlocking loops of the knit without cutting or breaking the fibers.

5. Select the Right Stitch

• Wovens can be sewn with a standard straight stitch. Knits require a stretch stitch (like a narrow zigzag or a lightning bolt stitch) so the seam can stretch with the fabric when worn. If you use a straight stitch on a tight knit, the thread will pop and break the moment the fabric stretches!

6. Match Fabric to Pattern

• Patterns designed for knits usually have “negative ease” (the garment is actually smaller than your body measurements and stretches to fit). Patterns for wovens have “positive ease” (they are drafted larger than your body so you can move, breathe, and put the garment on).